Monday, May 21, 2012

BUCKET LIST UPDATE – No. 179: Take the Old Federal Road Driving Tour

I scratched another item off my bucket list on Saturday when my family and I took “The Federal Road Driving Tour.” The tour is about 65 miles long, and it took us about four hours to complete. You could probably drive it faster, but we took our time and stopped for a picnic along the way.

For those of you unfamiliar with the Federal Road, it was established by the federal government in 1806 and stretched from Augusta, Ga. to New Orleans. It first served as a postal route between those two cities and was also used by frontiersmen who traded with the Indians. It was later used by settlers who moved into the area after the Creek Indian War. The Federal Road was also used to establish the boundary line between Monroe and Conecuh counties, and the present-day driving tour follows that route.

Armed with a pamphlet/map published by the Monroe County Heritage Museums, we started the tour in the northeast corner of Monroe County, a stone’s throw from the Conecuh County line and a short distance from Butler County. Eight OLD FEDERAL ROAD monuments, placed just off the highway, mark the route, and the first marker is found off County Road 29, in front of the Salem Church Cemetery.

That marker reads as follow – “North of Salem Cemetery and the former church was the site of Price’s Hotel, the first place to spend the night on the Federal Road after Greenville. Mr. Price was also the stagecoach driver for this section between Greenville and his hotel. Mrs. McNeil’s Tavern was located halfway between the church and Midway.”

While there, we also checked out the cemetery, which contained a number of Civil War graves and other old tombstones. The Salem Church building isn’t there any more, and it was hard to tell exactly where the church was exactly located.

From there, we took County Road 29, some of which is a dirt road, to County Road 106, which we took east to the intersection of State Highway 47 at Midway. A short distance later, less than a quarter of a mile, we turned south on State Highway 83, then decided to take advantage of the nice big shade trees at Midway Baptist Church. There we ate a picnic lunch and stretched our legs by looking around the old cemetery there. This cemetery contained a number of Civil War graves and Masonic tombstones.

From there we continued south on Highway 83 and began looking for the second marker, which we didn’t find. According to the pamphlet, it was designated the “Thompson Hare” marker and should have been located near the intersection of State Highway 83 and County Road 5. We looked and looked, turning around several times, but never found this marker. These markers were erected in 1998 by the Monroe County Heritage Museums and the J.L. Bedsole Foundation, and I figure that something may have happened to this one in the meantime. Of course, we may have just flat out missed it.

We continued south on County Road 5 and passed through the community of Skinnerton, before arriving in Pine Orchard, the site of the third marker on the tour. That marker is located just south of Monroe County Road 42 in front of a private residence.

That marker reads as follows – “Site of Fort Warren, built in 1816 by Colonel Richard Warren, who owned considerable land in this vicinity. This facility was used as a refuge for settlers who feared for their lives in the early days of the aftermath of the Creek Indian Wars of 1812-1814.”

From there we continued south on County Road 5, and not far out of Pine Orchard we encountered another historic marker. This one, however, isn’t part of the Old Federal Road Tour, but you might want to stop and check it out anyway. If you’re headed south, it’s a large white stone monument on the left hand side of the road.

That marker reads as follows – “JAMES SALTER, N.C., 1760-1835, COMSY. 2 REGT. CONTENITIAL TROOPS, REV. WAR, MEMBER STATE LEGISLATURE ALA., 1823-1828, MEMORIAL ERECTED BY CONECUH CHAPTER 1972 DAR AND DECENDANTS HON. WILEY SALTER AND JUDGE FRANK T. SALTER.”

Continuing south on County Road 5, you’ll pass through the Ramah community before arriving in the historic community of Burnt Corn. There, in front of the Old Bethany Baptist Church, you’ll find the next Old Federal Road maker.

That marker reads as follows – “Burnt Corn, Monroe County’s earliest settlement, became the crossroads of the Great Pensacola Trading Path and the Federal Road. Settler Jim Cornells returned from Pensacola in 1813, finding his home destroyed and his wife kidnapped by a Creek Indian war party. As the Creeks returned from procuring arms in Pensacola, Cornells and volunteers ambushed the Indians. Thus began the Creek Indian War of 1813-14."

From there we continued south on County Road 5 to the community of Bermuda. Just past the intersection of County Road 5 and the Loree Road, you’ll find the next Old Federal Road marker. It’s beside the Bermuda Grocery building.

That marker reads as follows – “Near Bermuda was the home of Jeremiah Austill, who won fame in the canoe fight on the Alabama River during the Creek Indian War. His first wife, Sarah, died of injuries from falling off a fence during an Indian raid.”

At this intersection, you’ll want to take a left to remain on County Road 5. If you take the other fork, you’ll be on what’s known as Drewry Road, which will carry you into Monroeville. Continuing south on County Road 5, you’ll pass Owens Chapel Church before coming up on the intersection of County Road 5 and a dirt road called Reed Road, where you’ll find the next marker.

It reads as follows – “Duncan MacMillan’s stage stop was located near here. According to traveler James Stuart in 1830, he (Duncan) “did not taste fermented liquor” and “thought coffee was the best stimulant.” Mr. McMillan came from Scotland and like many early settlers cleared his own land and grew sugar and cotton."

I’ve always been told that the Reed Road is impassable from that end, and the museum pamphlet backs that up by advising you to stay on County Road 5 and to travel south into the Town of Repton. You’ll eventually reach U.S. Highway 84. Turn right and travel west for about two miles, and just past Lee’s Quick Stop, turn left onto the Old Stage Road.

On this road, you’ll travel what might feel like a long time before encountering another marker. (Actually, it’s less than 10 miles.) This paved road will eventually become a dirt road, and you’ll know you’re on the right track when you pass what’s known as the Wild Fork Fire Tower on your right. The road will eventually become paved again and just past Partin Road, you’ll encounter the bridge over Little Escambia Creek.

The next Old Federal Road marker is on the north end of the bridge and reads as follows – “John Poebles had an established toll bridge over Little Escambia Creek in the early 1800’s. A dispute over the bridge arose between Poebles and John Hollinger. As a result Hollinger built a toll free bridge adjacent to Poebles’ toll bridge.”

From here, continue south on the Old Stage Road, pass Enon Church, and keep going until you reach the intersection of Old Stage Road and Butler Street. Turn left onto Butler Street and continue on a short distance until you reach Coley Chapel, which is just north of the Escambia County line.

The last Old Federal Road marker is located in the churchyard and reads as follows – “Coley Chapel is the present day site of the former town of Hadley. MacDavid’s Hotel was also located here and was recorded by travelers in the 1830’s as a hotel which had “plenty of very nice pork, which in some shape or other is the food generally used in this thinly peopled country…”

In the end, this was a pretty neat little field trip. The weather was nice, and we took our time. Mostly, we cruised along about 40 miles per hour with our windows down. The traffic on these roads was very light, and all it cost us was a little gas and whatever it took to assemble the picnic lunch.

How many of you have taken this tour from start to finish? What did you think about it? Did you like it or not? Why? How would you improve it? What’s the deal with the Thompson Hare marker north of Skinnerton? Does anyone know where it is or what happened to it? Let us know in the comments section below.

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